Serious ale consumption and a long walk don’t mix well, but a refreshing pint, lunch, and a stank along the cliffs takes some beating.
Better still then if there’s a second watering hole part way around your route.
This is a tough walk for the coastal part, even though at 4.5 miles it’s only a short one. It’s an easy stroll back to Zennor at the end though.
We parked in Zennor on a chilly but sunny Saturday and headed straight to the Tinners for lunch – what a start! Ham egg and chips for Minty and a crab cake for me, washed down with Tinners Ale and a good cider that I can’t remember the name of right now. The chips were excellent, service good and portions generous. I’d love to stay there one day to enjoy a few more scoops.
The scenery on this walk changes constantly and starts in the charming hamlet with pub, church, old houses and the town farm. The church has the simple beauty of many on this coast, and has the famous Zennor Mermaid carved on one of the pew ends. For an alternative story of the Zennor Mermaid check out the Legend of Archavon on this link.
Pass the church and farm both to your right and you’re on the path to the cliffs. The last house is a beauty. Carn Cobba was once a coastguard’s cottage, but now it’s a fine looking holiday let. Straight after the drops and climbs start that characterise the walk, pause often and take in the view, and catch your breath, while wondering with a touch of envy who lives in the house perched near the edge with that amazing view out to sea.
When the path crosses a concrete track with a few houses around it you’ve reached the Gurnard’s Head – it’s actually the headland that does look remarkably gurnard like. Head in land and up hill here and you’ll soon reach the pub hotel The Gurnard’s Head. Lunch here is not cheap, but it’s usually very good.
The path back starts with a stile on the opposite side of the lane you walked up to the hotel. Do notice the stiles on the way back, there are some beauties, simple yet massive creations of old. On the way back you can almost always see the next stile ahead of you as you cross the fields. There’s a stretch of a few hundred meters on the road that’s not so pleasant, the path picks up again after the house called Shangri-La.
Within no time you’re back in Zennor, where of course you could just go back to the Tinners for dinner!
We took out time on this walk, took photos, fooled around, sat around, and it took us 2 hours. You could do it a lot faster, but you’d miss out.